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Sunday, April 21, 2013

What is Phishing? In the field of computer security, phishing is the criminally fraudulent process of attempting to acquire sensitive information such as usernames, passwords and credit card details by masquerading as a trustworthy entity in an electronic communication. What does a phishing scam look like? Phishing e-mail messages take a number of forms. They might appear to come from your bank or financial institution, a company you regularly do business with, such as Microsoft, or from your social networking site. The following is an example of what a phishing scam in an e-mail message might look like. Phishing spamExample of a phishing e-mail message, which includes a deceptive Web address that links to a scam Web site. Here are a few phrases to look for if you think an e-mail message is a phishing scam. 1.Verify or update your account: Businesses should not ask you to send passwords, login names, Social Security numbers, or other personal information through e-mail. 2.you have won a prize or lottery: The lottery scam is a common phishing scam known as advanced fee fraud. One of the most common forms of advanced fee fraud is a message that claims that you have won a large sum of money, or that a person will pay you a large sum of money for little or no work on your part “3.If you don’t respond within 48 hours, your account will be closed.” These messages convey a sense of urgency so that you’ll respond immediately without thinking. Tips to protect yourselves from phishing: 1. Don’t reply to, or click links within, emails that ask for personal, financial, or account information. 2. Check the message hea ders. The ‘From:’ address and the ‘Return-path’ should reference the same source. If necessary, look at the expanded header as some phishing use vulnerable email servers to rout their messages. 3. Instead of clicking the links in emails, go to the websites directly by typing the web address into your browser, cut and paste, or use bookmarks. 4. If on a secure page, look for “https” at the beginning of the URL and the padlock icon in the browser. 5. Use a browser that has a phishing filter (Firefox, Internet Explorer, or Opera). 6. If you ever need to change your account information, such as your billing details or your password, you should always sign in to your account from the main login page of your trusted network (i.e. your bank’s main website) and make the changes directly within your account.

Wednesday, January 9, 2013

Computer Network

A computer network can be two computers connected:
A computer network can also consist of, and is usually made for, more than two computers:
Network Characteristics of a Computer Network
The primary purpose of a computer network is to share resources: You can play a CD music from one computer while sitting on another computer You may have a computer that doesn’t have a DVD or BluRay (BD) player. In this case, you can place a movie disc (DVD or BD) on the computer that has the player, and then view the movie on a computer that lacks the player You may have a computer with a CD/DVD/BD writer or a backup system but the other computer(s) doesn’t (don't) have it. In this case, you can burn discs or make backups on a computer that has one of these but using data from a computer that doesn’t have a disc writer or a backup system You can connect a printer (or a scanner, or a fax machine) to one computer and let other computers of the network print (or scan, or fax) to that printer (or scanner, or fax machine) You can place a disc with pictures on one computer and let other computers access those pictures You can create files and store them in one computer, then access those files from the other computer(s) connected to it
Peer-to-Peer Networking
Based on their layout (not the physical but the imagined layout, also referred to as topology), there are various types of networks. A network is referred to as peer-to-peer if most computers are similar and run workstation operating systems. In a peer-to-peer network, each computer holds its files and resources. Other computers can access these resources but a computer that has a particular resource must be turned on for other computers to access the resource it has. For example, if a printer is connected to computer A and computer B wants to printer to that printer, computer A must be turned On. :: Note It may be a good idea to know a little bit about MS Windows before getting into networking. :: Note Don’t think that you can install a (commercial) software product in one computer and use it on many computers. It doesn’t work like that.

Greetings

From Inteercommunication blogspot a subtool of Maintech Technologies, We wish you all HAPPY NEW YEAR
. In this YEAR of 2013 we are goin to serve you better than the previous year.
Thanks For Your Support Aderemi John

Tuesday, December 18, 2012

How To Create A Wi-fi Hotspot With An Internet Modem Using

It�s not everyone that has access to the broadband packages that comes inclusive with a wireless router that powers more than four devices to connect to the internet. MiFi, known as Mobile Hotspot devices have stepped in to curb out this problem, but one problem is that they are expensive and in most cases they only allow a maximum of 10 devices to be connected at a time. Buying a MiFi device will cost you around N20,000 to N30,000.
Today i�m going to show you how to easily create a wi-fi hotspot using your wireless enabled computer and your ordinary Internet Modem. How To Create A Wi-fi Hotspot With An Internet Modem Using Connectify With Connectify Pro. creating a Wi-fi hotspot is very easy using your LAN, Wi-Fi or 3G/4G internet connection. The free version of Connectify Pro only supports LAN and Wi-Fi internet connections into Wi-Fi hotspots while for 3G/4G modems, you would need to pay $39.99 only. Below I Explained How To Create Wi-Fi Hotspot With 3G/4G Internet Modem Using Connectify: Purchase and install Connectify Pro on your computer (Non-US residents can purchase it directly from the Connectify site).
- Insert in your Internet Modem and start the connection and then run Connectify Pro. - Create a name and password for your Wi-Fi hotspot and set Internet to share to Automatic or your Internet connection. - Under Advanced Settings, set Share Over to Wi-Fi and Sharing Mode to Wi-Fi Access Point, Encrypted. - Under Firewall, tick Allow Internet Access and Allow Local Network Access. - Click the Start Hotspot button and wait for Connectify Pro to start the Wi-Fi hotspot. - Once the hotspot starts, you can start connecting other devices to the network. - The $39.99 Connectify Pro fee covers the license for life and 1 year of support plus free updates. However after 1 year, you stop getting updates but your PRO version will remain active.

Facts about DVRs and Energy Consumption

There has been a lot of hype about the energy consumption of DVR units provided by cable and satellite television companies. Sensational headlines scream that DVRs are destroying your budget and melting the glaciers. These are quickly followed by sarcastic rebuttals and disparaging comparisons to Al Gore. An example from Popular Science: Your Set-Top Box Is Murdering Your Electric Bill. The headline literally screams murder and is followed by text like: “the biggest energy drain in your house…is, unbelievably, the TV set-top box.” The comments that follow the article are an exercise in acidic snark: “Can’t PopScience find writers that finished grade 3 arithmetic?”, “Does the writer not possess any common sense whatsoever?”, “Biggest load of tosh I’ve ever read.”
Those are the comments I can quote without bleeping…
So what is the real deal? How much do these things consume? Are they evil vampires or just the latest thing for silly people to be paranoid about? They’re Like Light Bulbs… The deal is this: Data shows that set-top boxes consume energy at about the rate of your average incandescent light-bulb, between 30 and 50 watts. By contrast, articles like the one I’ve cited claim that cable and satellite DVRs use as much power as a refrigerator or a/c unit. So there’s nothing to it, right? Fridges and a/c units obviously use more power than that.dvr energy consumption Yes and no.
DVRs That Never Shut Off
DVRs use much less energy than refrigerators or a/c units do when their compressors are running. According to this table from GE, a refrigerator/freezer uses about 450W, and a window unit a/c approximately 1000W. The problem is that unlike these appliances DVRs never turn off. Even when they are “off” they consume nearly as much power as they do when on. By contrast, refrigerators and a/c units do not run their compressors 24 hours a day. Now, DVRs need be ‘on’ enough to maintain a connection with the service provider and to receive software updates; it would be impractical to have them completely power down when they are not being used. Remember how long it takes to get a connection when you install service? You don’t want to have to wait that long every time you turn on the TV. However, this ‘always on’ requirement is entirely compatible with a low power ‘sleep’ mode that only keeps essential components on while the box isn’t being used. Cable and satellite companies are loath to build in such a sleep mode for reasons mostly related to their competitive environment. Namely, there isn’t demand for it from consumers sufficient to justify (in their view) putting the money and time into changing practices, and they are afraid that consumers will get annoyed having to wait for DVRs to power back up from a ‘sleep’ mode, resulting in a competitive disadvantage with rivals who can be expected to hype their “instant-on!” machines. By comparison, European markets have DVRs that sleep, due to government regulations. Much of the overheated rhetoric about DVR power consumption is aimed at either spurring regulations, or exciting consumer demand for such settings so that the providers will be motivated to provide them. How to Really Compare DVRs with Refrigerators So how do DVRs compare to refrigerators? It turns out that the comparisons trumpeted by the alarmists and the sarcastic rebuttals of the critics are both partially accurate. At 40W, DVRs obviously don’t consume energy nearly as quickly as a fridge (450W) or a/c unit (1000W) when it is running its compressor. But fridges and a/c units turn on and off as regulated by a timer or thermostat, while DVRs are constantly on. (NOTE: The most modern and energy efficient refrigerators have consumption rates below 150W even when the compressor is running, but most homes are not yet equipped with them. The number I’m using is an average of the most currently used models of fridge).
What’s a Watt?
To make sense of any comparison between the energy consumption of different appliances, we need to distinguish between two measures of energy that are often run together in debates and cause a lot of confusion, Watts and Kilowatt Hours. The one (Watts) measures power, the other (Kilowatt Hour) measures total energy. What does that mean? We can compare electricity to water flowing through a pipe and out of a spigot. Asking “How many Watts?” is like asking how fast water is coming out of the pipe; asking “How many kilowatt-hours (kWh)?” is like asking how much water came out of the pipe in total. In other words, Watts (W) indicate the rate of consumption, and kWh indicates the amount of energy consumed. So how much energy does a DVR consume? The average DVR plugged into the wall consumes energy at a rate of 40W nearly constantly. Consuming 40W constantly for an hour translates to 40 “watt hours” of energy, or .04 kWh. Thus, the average DVR consumes 960 watt hours per day – 40W times 24 hours – which is .96 kWh, a little bit less than one kWh. By comparison, the average modern refrigerator run at full power (450W) 24/7 would consume 10.8 kWh per day. That’s a whole lot more than the DVR. But for how much of the day does a fridge run at full power?
The answer is…it depends.
Of course it depends. It depends on where you live and how you use the appliance. Are you running your refrigerator in a house that’s 70 degrees F, or 90? Do you open the door a few times a day, or over and over? Do you tend to stand in front of the open door trying to figure out what to eat, or open and close it real quick? How much food is in it? Etc. For this reason it’s much more useful to compare appliances based on measures of average annual energy consumption. Here’s an example. According to the table in the link a standard refrigerator built between 2001 and 2010 consumes an average of 600 kWh per year, while the most modern and energy efficient models consume on average 425 kWh per year. Your mileage will vary, depending on whether you live in an environment warmer than average or colder than average, and on how you use your fridge. So let’s just use the averages and compare them to the DVR. With our assumptions, the average DVR consumes .96 kWh per day, which translates to (.96×365=) 350.4 kWh per year. This is getting close to the energy consumption of the most efficient refrigerators at 425 kWh, and is approximately 58% of the average annual consumption of a standard 2000’s era fridge at 600 kWh.
What to Take Away From This?
The alarmists are clearly exaggerating this issue. But their sarcastic critics are severely underestimating it. If your concern is your energy bill, it’s probably not that big of a deal. Having a DVR will cost you something on the order of a few tens of dollars per year, depending on your energy rates. However, if your concern is the economic and environmental effects of the overall energy consumption of millions of consumers, it is a big deal, and improving the efficiency of DVRs is certainly worth promoting. More importantly, however, neither side has talked about what’s really shocking about all of this: keeping a 40W light bulb burning all the time is like having a second refrigerator in your house! => Help us Invite your Friends on Facebook to inteercommunication.blogspot.com!!!

Networking your safari with network tabs.

With the outrun of the new Apple operating system, ios6, cloud computing has finally come of age. The iCloud facility on all Apple devices, including Mac computers and iPod Touch, allows anyone running the latest operating system to see any previously opened Safari tabs on all Apple devices registered under the same Apple ID. While the uses of this may not be immediately apparent, consider trying to remember a web address you opened on your iPhone and now want to open on your iPad, your iPod Touch or your MacBook. It is now possible to access any previously opened websites from any device, turning all your devices into one Internet connection. How to Network Your Safari Browser With iCloud Tabs On a Mobile device: 1. Make sure all your mobile Apple devices are updated with ios6, or OS X 10.7.4 or later on your iMac or MacBook. All devices capable of updating to the new operating system should all alert the user that an update is available. Once the update has been applied you are ready to set your devices to access iCloud.
2 . Open the settings icon on the homepage of mobile devices. 3. Scroll to iCloud on mobile devices and open the submenu. 4 . Scroll to Safari on your mobile devices and set the switch to “on”. The system will now ask if you want to sync all your devices and choosing “yes” will allow you to access iCloud tabs on all of them. On an iMac or MacBook 1. Update your iMac PC, or MacBook to OS X 10.7.4 or later. 2. Go to the Apple menu and select System Preferences. 3. Select iCloud and enter your Apple ID. 4. Select Safari. 5. The system will now ask if you want to sync all your devices and choosing “yes” will allow you to access iCloud tabs on all of them. In order for you to access iCloud tabs on all your devices, the devices you wish to access will all need to have this setting activated. If you wish to stop some, or all, of your Internet browsing from being accessible to other devices then you need to turn on Private Browsing which will hide your activity in iCloud tabs. Now the facility is activated it is ready to use. If you open the Safari browser on any device that is registered with your Apple ID and click the Bookmark symbol at the bottom of the page a submenu will open. Underneath the Reading List and History entries will be the iCloud Tabs entry. Clicking on this will provide a list of all your open tabs on accessible devices. With the new innovations introduced through Apple’s ios6, and the advent of the iPhone 5, the iCloud sharing facility has become a useful innovation. Not only can users now access all their files, calendar entries, photos and documents from separate devices, remotely, but they can also access the Internet and other facilities through one shared browsing experience. Apple’s iCloud facility has turned disparate devices into one connected computer system that can be accessed anywhere, anytime. The ability to sync all of your apple devices is just amazing and the ease of it all is very non technical. Using iCloud Tabs mean that you can see the web pages that you last viewed on your Mac on your iPhone or iPad as well. So for example you might need to leave in a hurry when using your Mac, jump in the car and continue (as a passenger) your browsing if you are using a device with the same Apple ID. Sam Jones, the author, has recently been looking into mobile phone deals free gifts and the great giveaways you can get with phone and broadband contracts. => Help us Invite your Friends on Facebook to inteercommunication.blogspot.com!!!

Fixing I/O device errors

Fixing I/O device errors on external hard drives can be simple, difficult, or impossible depending on your situation. The good news is that you can often diagnose the problem with a few quick tricks and some equipment you already have at home. The Problem With I/O Errors The problem with Input/Output (I/O) errors is that they’re generic—the error messages you see are what Windows, Mac, and Linux say when they know there’s a problem but they don’t know exactly what that problem is. It could be that your USB or eSATA cord is a little bit loose. Or it could be that your external hard drive is knocking on death’s door. That means you’re going to have to do some sleuthing—you can’t just find a blog by somebody who got the same error message and do what he did.
[io error]
The Easiest Problems To Fix Some I/O errors are really easy to fix. Most them have to do with the cords that connect your external hard drive to your computer. The first thing to check—and you may already have done this—is that all of your cords are connected tightly. Check the connection to your external hard drive and to your computer. If you’re connecting to a USB hub, make sure the cord from the computer to the hub is connected tightly at both the hub and computer ends or—and this is preferred—connect the external hard drive directly to one of the USB ports on your computer, bypassing the hub and any problems it may have. The next easiest problem to fix is cord crosstalk. The electricity in one set of wires tends to leak into other wires, so when you have two wires close together on your desk, they may be interfering with each other. Interference isn’t a big deal to your mouse or keyboard—Windows just ignores spurious data—but it’s a big deal to your hard drive where Windows assumes the files it opens and saves are accurate. To check for crosstalk problems, disconnect any unnecessary devices on your computer and move the cords for the necessary devices further away from your external hard drive. You may also want to disable Bluetooth and move your cell phone across the room. Don’t worry, if you have a crosstalk problem, you can avoid I/O device errors on external hard drives permanently by buying better cables—just look for shielded cables. Good shielded USB cables include dampeners on both ends: these are little cylinders containing magnets near the plugs. The final cord-related problem requires a friend or an expenditure. It could be that you have a faulty cable. This is especially likely if you just bought your external hard drive or if you tend to abuse your cables by not putting them away properly. If you have a friend with a similar external hard drive (and the cables aren’t hardwired), borrow his cables. If that’s not an option, buy replacement cables. You should be able to buy short replacement cables for USB and eSATA for less than $5 if you shop around.
Difficult But Fixable Problems
If you don’t have a cord problem, the chances that you’ll be able to recover from I/O errors decreases rapidly. Since there are two types of hard drives, there are two different sets of solutions. For magnetic (high capacity) hard drives, I/O errors often start occurring when the ball bearings get worn or bent out of shape. This happens mainly to drives which have been active for more than two years total or drives which have been dropped. If you get I/O errors on a new external hard drive, I recommend you return it immediately—it was probably dropped during shipping or part of a defective lot. A key sign that your I/O problem is caused by bad ball bearings is clicking or grinding noises inside your external hard drive every time you plug it into your computer. You can often get a magnetic drive to start working again by shrinking the ball bearings a little bit so they fit back into their regular tracks. How do you shrink an almost microscopic ball bearing inside a hermetically-sealed hard drive? Basic physics: you freeze it—all metals shrink when cooled. Note that this can be dangerous and there’s a risk that not just your data and your computer will be destroyed but that you’ll be electrically shocked. Put your magnetic external hard drive in a Zip-Lock bag. Squeeze out the air. Then put that bag inside another Zip-Lock bag and squeeze out that air. Put a rubber band around the drive in the bag to keep new air from leaking in so you don’t give your hard drive freezer burn. Put the bagged external hard drive in the freezer for at least an hour and preferably overnight. Then get your computer ready to copy files off the drive as fast as possible. When you’re ready, take the hard drive out of the bag, connect it to your computer, and start copying files. If the hard drive dies in the middle of copying, freeze it again. Hopefully with this technique you can recover all of your important files. Here are some detailed instructions on how system administrators recover data.
Solid State Drive Recovery
Solid state drives tend to fail more gracefully than magnetic drives, so you don’t need to explain to your family why you have a hard drive in the freezer. The main cause of I/O errors on a solid state drive is too many writes. Every time you save a file to a solid state drive, you use up one of the limited rewritable sectors. Early solid state drives had about 10,000 writes; modern drives typically have 100,000 to 1,000,000 writes. Once the writes are gone, you can no longer write to that sector. You can still write to other sectors, but Windows isn’t smart enough to only write to working sectors, so it gives you the I/O error. There are two pieces of good news here—one short-term and one long-term. Short-term, you can still copy files off of your solid state external hard drive, so you haven’t lost any data. Long-term, researchers are working on new tools which will allow computers to work around failed solid state sectors so you can start to write files again. But until then, there’s no real way for solid state drives to fix I/O device errors on external hard drives => Help us Invite your Friends on Facebook to inteercommunication.blogspot.com!!!
 

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